Our visit to the Italian Riviera offered more than an Instagrammable, picture-perfect montage of views. It also opened us up to the more lived-in, authentic areas of Liguria, reminding us that beauty isn’t always found in perfection.
Going from Bellagio, Lake Como, to Rapallo, Liguria, in one day featured almost every mode of transportation short of flying. Step one was taking a taxi (car) to the port of Bellagio. Step two was taking a ferry (boat) to Varenna. Step three was taking the train to Milan and then transferring to another train to get to Rapallo.
When we arrived in Rapallo, we were not immediately met with a postcard-perfect, pastel waterfront beach town. Instead, the train station connected to a very residential area sprinkled with local cafés and convenience stores. I grew to love the area because it offered a better glimpse into residential living and everyday life in an Italian beach town.
Once we dropped our things off and walked to the main part of town, we were met with a charming city filled with colorful painted facades and a lively atmosphere. Vendors lined the walkway overlooking the harbor, selling unique handcrafted goods. We also took in the medieval fortress standing proudly along the coast. I felt excited to be exploring a new region of Italy!
In Rapallo, we had our first truly impressive aperitivo, which featured a spread of cheeses, bread, mortadella, marinated cannellini beans (a new love of mine), carrots, and other snacks. No shade, but Bellagio only offered those things if you paid extra! The Liguria region is known for its focaccia and pesto, and I really enjoyed trying both from different restaurants. However, my brother – who knows what he likes and sticks to it – would frequently order a Margherita pizza with buffalo mozzarella. My mom and I – the ones who like to branch out and try something new – would often end up with food envy after trying his!
The plan for the Italian Riviera had been simple: swim and relax. However, when the weather is in the low 70s and you feel compelled to wear pants every day, you begin to realize you might need to rethink the itinerary. So, my mom spent the train ride researching things to do around the Italian Riviera.
While the Italian Riviera is known for its pristine, crystal-clear turquoise waters, luxurious beach clubs, high-end shopping, and picturesque coastal restaurants, we decided to venture beyond its polished façade. On a whim, we planned a day trip to Genoa to experience a different side of the Liguria region.
Exploring Genoa offered a glimpse into what a lived-in, historic Italian city feels like. Narrow alleys wound throughout the city, revealing its medieval roots. There was graffiti and grit, but there was also beauty in the historic palazzos.
During our day trip, we explored multiple museums and cathedrals, one of which we climbed a spiraling staircase to reach the top and enjoy a 360-degree view of the city. As I took in the view, I could feel the layers of history and liveliness surrounding me. Genoa didn’t have the polished charm of Lake Como or Portofino, but instead offered an authenticity that I grew to appreciate. It was powerful to see such realness and activity – large cruise ships docked in the distance, buildings from different centuries rose at varying heights, seagulls soared overhead, and church bells rang in the distance.
As much as I admired Genoa’s unfiltered charm, Portofino was breathtaking.
We decided to tackle the more than three-mile hike from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino. We began our journey by visiting a stunning villa in Santa Margherita Ligure. The entrance was lined with a canopy of vibrant purple flowers, and by the time we reached the villa – which was a steep walk – we were rewarded with views of the coastline and boats scattered along the horizon. We enjoyed taking pictures before beginning our hike to Portofino. A shout out to my brother, who is basically trained in taking aesthetic, Insta-worthy photos for me (no matter how many times I hand him back the phone and ask him to fix the angle).
For nearly the entire hike, we walked alongside the coast. The water glistened and shimmered. We watched a pretty blue gradually transform into a strikingly clear turquoise as we got closer to Portofino.
We passed beach clubs and admired those who swam despite the cool water temperature. By then, the day had warmed into the upper 70s, so swimming honestly felt doable to me, and I was glad I had packed a swimsuit. My mom, however, was less optimistic and warned that the water would be too cold.
Eventually, we reached a point where the sidewalk ended, right beside the patterned green-and-white umbrellas of the luxurious Dolce & Gabbana beach club, and followed the arrow pointing toward Portofino up the mountain. The views of the water as we began our ascent were unreal. The canopy of trees cooled us off, and we savored every moment of the hike.
My favorite moment was seeing Baia Cannone – a Pinterest-worthy picture of tranquility. Two stunning villas sat tucked beside a quaint swimming hole. I made sure I got a closer look and convinced my mom and brother to promise we’d stop there later that day.
After passing the beach, we made our way into the elegant Portofino harbor. The town itself was quite small, but the number of photos I took would suggest otherwise. Portofino exuded luxury, and I enjoyed window-shopping. I will say, though, that it was hard to avoid overpriced tourist traps when it came to food, so we settled on splitting a pizza before getting gelato later.
We eventually made our way back to Baia Cannone, and up close it was absolutely ethereal. Through the crystal-clear water, I could see an assortment of rocks in every shape, size, and color. The rhythmic swoosh of the waves against the shore was comforting and called me to dip my feet in. Unfortunately, my mom was right – the water was too cold for me to want to swim. Even so, the view and atmosphere made returning completely worthwhile, and I felt a sense of awe knowing I would always have the memory of visiting such a beautiful place.
For our final activity, we hiked to an old castle overlooking Portofino. The castle itself was fairly plain and nothing particularly memorable. However, the panoramic view of the Portofino harbor made the hike completely worth it. All the boats – or yachts, I should say – floated together below us. We could even see parts of our earlier hike stretching along the coastline and admired the deep blue sea extending into the distance.
We ended our day by taking a scenic ferry back to Rapallo. Once we docked, we enjoyed another aperitivo before having a delicious dinner at a charming restaurant. (I had pesto pasta!)
Looking back, the hike to Portofino may have been the highlight, but what I’ll remember just as much are the quieter moments in Rapallo and Genoa that reminded me beauty isn’t always found in the places that make the postcards. Stay tuned for our time in Milan and a romantic day trip to Verona!
Ciao for now!
Madeline in Prague 
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